What to expect from fashion month: New York, London, Milan and Paris

Here’s what the Big Four have in store for autumn/winter 2025…

Lara Owen
Wednesday 05 February 2025 07:20 GMT
Celebs gear up to hit the front rows at Fashion Week this month (Alamy/PA)
Celebs gear up to hit the front rows at Fashion Week this month (Alamy/PA)

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Fashion fanatics are gearing up for an influx of designer debuts and returning big names to hit the fashion week runways this month.

Designers will be showing their autumn/winter 2025 collections this February and March, with industry heavy weights and celebrities no doubt gracing the front rows.

Autumn/winter fashion month falls right in the middle of awards season, meaning some of the best looks are instantly picked up for the celebrity red carpet.

Here’s what to expect from New York, London, Milan and Paris this fashion month…

New York

When:?February 6-11

What to expect:?In June 2024, the Big Four fashion weeks agreed to all shift their dates back a week. However, New York has now decided against the changes because of a clash with a US public holiday. As a result, NYFW will now be held on 6-11 February (rather than 13-18 February agreed in June), leaving a nine-day gap between New York and London Fashion Week.

This gap has received mixed reviews, with some show-goers excited for a break to recover from their trans-Atlantic jet lag, while others say it will impact the attendance of smaller fashion weeks such as Berlin and Copenhagen.

Nevertheless, fashion lovers will get to enjoy an autumn/winter look-book early, with collections from classic US designers including Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera and Michael Kors, alongside collections from Luar and Brandon Maxwell.

London

When:?February 20-24

What to expect:?London Fashion Week, held biannually in February and September, is a major event in the global fashion industry, known for its bold creativity and cutting-edge designs.

This year, London will feature the usual suspects, including Emilia Wickstead, Erdem, Richard Quinn and Roksanda.

Burberry remains one of the highlights of the LFW calendar – and this season, designer Daniel Lee will be showing his latest collection. The heritage brand announced a turnaround last year, as new CEO Joshua Schulman, who joined in July succeeding Jonathan Akeroyd, unveiled ‘Burberry Forward’.

The plan aims to bring the brand back to where it was two years ago with a focus on outerwear and a more diversified pricing structure, something showcased in the ‘It’s Always Burberry Weather’ outerwear campaign last October.

Schulman’s plan emphasised the desire for Burberry to remain a luxury brand, as opposed to an ‘accessible luxury’ brand, that many were calling for in 2024 denoting it as the “British Coach”.

Milan

When: February 25-March 3

What to expect: Milan’s fashion week is home to some of the biggest labels, with many Italian fashion houses paying homage to their roots by staying put.

Italian designers including Fendi, Prada, Gucci, Versace and Dolce & Gabbana will grace the Milan runways.

Alongside these incumbents, ‘ones to watch’ also pepper the schedule, including London-based designer Susan Fang, who is backed by Dolce & Gabbana and is becoming known for her innovative style.

Campania-born designer Francesco Murano, graduate of the prestigious IED Milan, will also have eyes on his collection, as the 2020 winner of the Who is on Next? prize for his womenswear designs. Murano’s looks are already Beyoncé-approved, who wore one of his graduate pieces to the 2020 Grammy brunch.

There are also some highly anticipated runway debuts from Lorenzo Serafini (the new creative director of Alberta Ferretti) and Missoni’s new head Alberto Caliri, who is likely to pay tribute to Rosita Missoni, the brand’s late founder who passed away in early January.

Paris

When:?March 3-11

What to expect:?The concluding fashion week of the Big Four is Paris. The shows include industry heavyweights such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, and Saint Laurent.

All eyes will be on three key debuts: Sarah Burton’s runway show for Givenchy, Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford and Julian Klausner for Dries Van Noten.

One of the most notable absences from the show schedule is Loewe, which is opting for a co-ed presentation format instead. (The brand was also missing from the Paris Men’s schedule in January.) This decision comes as speculation swirls that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, formerly of Proenza Schouler, could be set to succeed Jonathan Anderson at the Spanish house.

Ala?a is a PFW new-comer, as the brand’s founder Azzedine Ala?a has previously opted out of Paris, choosing to show on his own time instead. This marks the first time the house enters the official Paris ready-to-wear schedule.

Tom Ford is making a notable move this season, shifting from Milan to Paris for the debut show under its new creative director, Haider Ackermann. The Estée Lauder-owned house joins a line-up of fresh additions to the schedule, including Christopher Esber, winner of the 2024 Andam Prize; Hodakova, recipient of the 2024 LVMH Prize for Young Designers; and Burc Akyol, an LVMH Prize finalist.

This season also sees the return of Givenchy, along with Coperni, which last presented off-calendar at Disneyland Paris.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin is back in the French capital following a one-off show in New York for AW24 and a couture collection as guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier. Kenzo, absent from ready-to-wear since September 2020, is making a comeback, alongside Marine Serre, Undercover, Off-White, and Véronique Leroy.

Chanel will stage its second ready-to-wear collection designed by the studio on March 11, with Matthieu Blazy’s first full collection for the house expected in October 2025.

Other major moments include shows from Dior, Balenciaga, Chloé, Balmain, Alexander McQueen, Hermès, The Row, Victoria Beckham, Lacoste, and Stella McCartney. Saint Laurent will bring the week to a close on March 11.

Altogether the autumn/winter 2025 women’s ready-to-wear calendar features a total of 72 shows and 37 presentations. “This calendar shows the vitality of Paris, and international diversity with both established brands and promising young designers,” says Pascal Morand, executive president of Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

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